Monday 11 August 2008

Pique-Nique; Parisian Style.

If you are tired of eating out in Paris, but still want to be out and about enjoying the Parisian atmosphere, an ideal compromise is a picnic on Canal Saint Martin. The canal is a popular destination for locals, and is a great place to see a more relaxed version of Paris.

The canal runs from Parc de la Villette south to join the Seine at Bastille, although from Rue Faubourg du Temple south it runs underground, so most people sit above Rue de Lancry, thereby having some water to gaze at. Stopping at any supermarket will allow you to stock up on yummy cheeses, dried meats and wine, and there is a great bakery on Rue de Lancry- you can even ask them to pre-slice the bread for you. Take some time to wander the edge of the canal before you choose somewhere to sit, and do not get put off by the big intersection at Jaures; if you cross over you will find that the canal widens out to create an even calmer, picnic-friendly area.

For those who are less picnic-prepared, or simply want a more hassle-free dinner, there are a few great take-away spots along or near the canal. Pink Flamingo’s pizza (67 Rue Bichat, 75010) is definitely the best pizza in Paris. The pizza’s are all very unusual, UTTERLY delicious and named accordingly. The Basquiat is covered in fig, prochiutto and blue cheese, the Gandhi features Saag Paneer and Baba Ganoush, and the Che pork and banana! The pizza is great, but Pink Flamingo’s ‘picnic au canal’ is truly genius. Order your pizzas, and you will be given a pink helium balloon. You can then wander that canal, choose a place to sit, and the pizza will be delivered to you and your balloon for no extra charge.

Another great take-away spot, just around the corner, is Le Cambodge (10 Avenue Richerand, 75010), a gorgeous Cambodian restaurant. It’s a good idea to order about ½ and hour in advance as this place is infamously busy- not surprising as it is considered the best Cambodian food in Paris.

If it’s just a drink you are after, the options are really endless. Almost everywhere along the canal will let you cross the road to the canal edge with your drink. Further up the canal, where the waterfront widens out to the Bassin de la Villette, you will find a great bar called Bar Ourqc (Quai de la Loire). Here, like everywhere else, you can take drinks out to the canal. But, unlike elsewhere, you can also borrow petanque (bowles) sets to play with- the flat, sandy canal edge forming the perfect playing surface.

Point Ephemere (200 quai de valmy, 75010), a bar/art studio/concert hall is also worth checking out if you are after something a bit more alternative. Make sure you have a look at whatever art is on display inside, to the right of the bar space.

Oh, and there is one very important thing to remember if you plan of having a picnic- a wine knife- screw tops are still entirely frowned upon in France!

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