There are many hidden secrets kept within the Peripherique which surrounds Paris, and having a knowledge of some of them can really help transform a visit to the capital. Having a few tricks up your sleeve to help you to wind down, get some exercise and refresh yourself is always a good idea on any holiday, and a Parisian visit should be no exception.
Paris is absolutely littered with swimming pool, outdoor and indoor (37 to be precise), and they are all charming in their own ways. My favourite outdoor pool is the Piscine Roger Le Gall in the 12th arrondissement, because getting to it involves cycling along a beautiful green bike route on the edge of the city. For those of you who are not using bikes (and I haven’t seen a velib stand around Roger Le Gall yet) there are some more central options. Try Piscine Emile Anthoine, where you can swim while gazing at the view of the Eiffel Tower, or Piscine Joséphine Baker, which is both a swimming pool AND a boat, located near the national library Francois Mitterand. Indoor pools vary in style, but are all in very good condition. My personal favourite is Piscine Pontoise in the 5th arrondissement; it is old and charming, and you get a personal changing room where you can leave your clothes and step straight out to the pool, avoiding the hassle of a locker. This pool also has a late night offer on Tuesday’s, Thursday’s and Friday’s, where 9 euros allows you to swim and sauna from 9pm onwards. For a full list of Parisian Piscine’s, have a look on http://www.paris.fr/portail/Sport/Portal.lut?page_id=8409 In terms of lugging swimming gear from home to Paris, having a rental apartment while you are here is certainly easier, as it will provide towels and you will also have washing machines and dryers at your disposal. Like all public pools, the prices are good- especially if you can claim a reduced tariff, which is around 2 euros.
The numerous Parisian parks offer a great respite from the stress of the city, and are beautiful when the leaves are turning. Everyone knows the big spots, Jardin Luxembourg, Jardin des Plantes, Jardin de Tuileries, but here in lies a crucial point- the difference between a ‘Jardin’ and a ‘Parc’ in France. At most Jardins, it is forbidden to sit on the grass, or one tiny portion of a beautiful expanse of lawn is set aside for the activity, which you and a thousand other people will have to squeeze onto. And fair enough too; Jardin Luxembourg would look a lot less charming if it’s lawns were pitted and brown. The rules are strict and carefully maintained; stray onto a patch of ‘pelouse interdit’ and incur the wrath of the Grass Police (seriously, they will appear from no-where and tell you to beat it.) So, if you really want to ‘Dejeuner Sur L’Herbe’ a la Manet, it is better to head to a true ‘Parc.’ Finding the big parks is simply a matter of taking out a map of Paris. Parc Monceau is beautiful and classic, Parc de la Vilette a grassy version of the Pompidou centre, Parc Buttes Chaumont hilly- a rarity in Paris. The only problem with all of these parks is they tend to be on the edge, a little too far away from the main hub of the city. It is the smaller, more intimate Paris parks which are the real finds, and they are plentiful. Here are my top three:
1) Parc Anne Frank- wonderful due to its location just off Rue Beaubourg (and the Pompidou Centre) on Impasse Berthaud. The park is named after a Chestnut tree seedling which grows here (near the main entrance) which was taken from the tree Anne Frank could see from the secret Annex, and wrote about in her diary. The peace and quiet of this park, sitting in the centre of Paris, is a welcome respite.
2) Place des Vosges- not so secret, but still a goodie, once again due to it’s location. Place des Vosges is at the end of Rue Franc Bourgeois, one of the prettiest and best shopping streets in Paris. It is also just up from Bastille, where there is a gorgeous food market on Sunday, the ideal place to stock up for a picnic. Place des Vosges is reputedly the most expensive real estate in Paris, and is worth visiting just to admire the architecture.
3) The Square in Hopital Saint Louis- This is the ULTIMATE sun spot. Situated in the heart of the 400 year old hospital just off the canal, walking into the square is like travelling back in time and discovering a very secret garden. Huge trees and manicured lawns await those lucky few who know where this square is- and now that lucky few includes you! The easiest access to the square is off Rue Bichat in the 10th. Be careful, the garden is locked up on the weekend, but in a way this is nicer, as it is always quiet on weekdays.
And these three are just the tip of the iceberg- there are small, secluded parks all over Paris (thanks to Jacques Chirac, who poured money into making Paris greener) and it is wise to ask about them in your neighbourhood. Apartment rental companies who make it their business to know the neighbourhood are more than happy to offer this sort of information, and hotels should be able to point you in the right direction. And the cherry on top of the gardens-of-Paris cake? Almost all of them offer free wifi.
So on your visit to Paris this autumn, take some time out to sit back and relax, even if it is only for a few hours. The city certainly doesn’t stop, but it is worth doing just that and watching it go by….
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