Friday 22 August 2008

The Country-folk at the Heart of Every Parisian

When I first arrived in Paris, my French teacher at La Sorbonne said something which, as the time, struck me as rather odd. She claimed that, despite having moved into big cities, the French are all still rustic country-folk (a la Middle Ages), and proud of it.

The longer I have spent in Paris, the more the truth of this statement has struck me. Everyone knows that France is a very traditional country; only this year has opening on a Sunday become common (amidst much resentment). It is often this traditionalism that frustrates visitors unfamiliar with the rules and regulations (the congees annuelles in August perhaps the most obvious example of this) But at the same time, I believe that it is this rustic ‘country-ness’ which sets Paris apart from the other metropolitan centres of Europe, and adds a charm that cannot be found anywhere else.

Food, and the process of shopping for it perhaps illustrates this point best. Arriving in Paris, do not expect to find the huge supermarkets that satisfy every need as anglophones tend to be used to. Sure, there are Monoprix and Franprix supermarkets (amongst others), but these places are targeted more at the staples, it is just not normal to buy fresh produce here, and why would you, when there is so much else on offer?

As it has been for centuries in France, so it is today in Paris; speciality stores reign supreme. Yes, it is more time consuming, but the service, the produce, and interacting directly with the actual owner (or some relation of the owner) of the enterprise is a nice break from the halogen-lit isles of the hyper-markets we are used to.

The situation can be daunting, but I implore you, fear not! 99% of the time, ask for help and you will receive it; tell them what wine you are going to drink, what sort of cooking you are going to do, or who you are cooking for, and you will receive sound advice. It is wise to head to the shops at a quiet time (not just as the working day ends); this way you avoid a long queue of impatient Frenchmen listening to your every word.

A good place to shop for food is Rue Montorgueil, in the 2nd Arrondissement. There is everything you could ask for here, and some. The street is pedestrian, and also non-French speaker friendly, although this comes with a price; it is certainly not the cheapest place in Paris to shop. Sensei, the coffee shop at the cut of Montorgueil and Tiquetonne is a wonderful place to stop for a caffeinated pick-me-up.

North-east of Montorgueil, on Rue Saint Denis, the prices are considerably cheaper, but the area considerably rougher. For something in between, head to Rue Rambuteau (east of Beaubourg). This spot has the added advantage of turning into Rue Francs Bourgeois, one of the best clothes shopping streets of Paris!

But for the best ‘rural Paris’ experience, you have to go to an outdoor market. The biggest and best is on Sundays at Bastille, called ‘La Marche de la Creation’ (open until 2pm). Here you can find everything, from fish to fruit to flowers to fantastic buskers. The prices are absurdly cheap, and the food is all delicious. My top pick? The dried strawberries and the Halvah, sold at a store in the central row, about 100 meters from the Bastille end. At the market, you can find all the trademark French shops: fromageries, boucheries, and boulangeries as well as some less French items, such as a lovely Paella stand and wonderful homemade fresh Italian pasta. The best thing about the markets is that everyone is willing to give you a little try before you buy!

So instead of seeing it as a chore, take an afternoon to do your shopping- wander around slowly and really think about the processes behind the final product you are buying; it makes dinner that night all the more satisfying!

No comments: